Oria is a town of around 15,000 people in the province of Brindisi in Puglia. It is one of the principal Messapian cities located about 7.4 miles from the ancient town of Manduria, which still shows its Messapian walls and is famous for the production of the wine called Primitivo di Manduria, made from the same grape as we know in America as Zinfandel.
The Messapians inhabited the Salento in classical antiquity. You can find out more about them and the archaeology of the territory in the archaeology museum in Oria. The Museum is open from Monday to Saturday 9:00-13:00 and by appointment on Sundays and holidays. You’ll find it in the historical center of Oria, in the 18th century, Baroque Palazzo Martini.
Oria is a bit of a hill town—unusual in the generally flat Salento. There’s a castle on the highest reaches of the hill. A fantastic medieval festival takes place every year in August.
There’s a Jewish quarter in Oria; it’s one of the oldest in Europe.
The area is a hotbed of nuts and dried fruit. A local brought me into this tiny shop. It sold every kind of healthy snack you might imagine.
There is also great food to be found in more formal and airy establishments like restaurants, as you can imagine. Our friend took us to Ristorante Vecchia Oria, shown below. It was way earlier than most Pugliese eat, 9pm or so, when it’s cool enough, so the owner adjusted the pictures before he came to the table to talk about what we wanted to eat. We had had a huge meal for lunch, so we were snacking—the four of us shared many appetizers.
I was surprised to see on the web that many people said in various “reviews” that the food wasn’t to their taste—and many said the wait staff didn’t treat tourists well. Forget that. Talk to your waiter. Show your interest not in limiting your palate to what you know, but concentrate on the food that people in these parts eat. Then you are (usually) as good as a local. Just don’t make retching noises when a fish arrives with its head on, or look appalled when you see squid tentacles. It’s all part of the cuisine. It won’t kill you.
Oria, if you are anywhere near it, is an interesting place to visit. There are great views from the castle built in 1227 by Emperor Frederick II of Hohenstaufen, the 13th-century Swabian ruler of southern Italy. It’s likely you will only be able to visit the outside of it, unless it is open for a special occassion, but the gardens will calm and cool you, and sunsets are worth seeing from the castle hill almost every night in tourist season.
August brings the Corteo storico di Federico II – Torneo dei Rioni
“During the second half of August Oria stages one of Italy’s best medieval pageants when the town re-creates the splendors of the glorious ages by performing a historical Parade of Frederick II and the Palio dei Rioni (Tournament of the four districts). The event originated in 1225 when Frederick II decided to “amuse the loyal inhabitants of Orea” while waiting for his wedding with the bride Isabella of Brienne, which occurred in November of that year in the Cathedral of Brindisi. This historical parade is the most important recreation of the Frederick II’s domain period that takes place today in Italy.” ~ Oria
Map of Oria
Travel Notes on a visit to Oria, Italy
When to Go: Spring or Fall. Summers are hot. Lecce climate charts and information
Region: Puglia Map
Days: 1-2, or do it as a short day trip from Manduria.
The train rain station is to the north of town along the Taranto-Brindisi line.
Parking: Parking lots outside the old town, some near the train station.
Recommended Hotel: B&B Messapia
Local Wines: Salice Salentino, Primitivo
Continue on to Manduria and the Orio Archaeological Museum →