Ah, those food festivals just keep on coming. They’re one of the sweet pleasures of this almost summer in Italy.
We arrived in Fivizzano just as a storm threatened to make a windy mess of things. It was a monday—noonish—and there admittedly wasn’t much going on at the four day festival. At night the streets will be full of food and wine stands; there were covered tables where folks could eat, now empty. You could see the potential. There were a few open food stands selling wine, cheese, cured meats, and cherries.
You could also smell the smoke of a wood fire burning. We threaded our way through the medieval town, following our noses. Wood spice, a bit yeasty, got stronger as we left the city center through the remaining gate.
Aha! Focacette! Yes, flat breads cooked in a wood oven then stuffed with cheese or meat or fat (yes, that famous lardo di Colonnata, a wonderful thing when combined with hot bread, fresh out of the oven. And don’t let me hear you whining about lardo—you use butter or some even worse chemical pseudo fat concoction on yours so it’s a tie, but lardo definitely wins for flavor).
Anyway, a cool day, two focacette, one with straccino cheese and one with porchetta, a “glass” of wine and a half liter of fizzy water: €6. Feeds two. And, oh my did that warm bread, cooked just minutes before, feel good in the hands.
Afterwords we hit the stands and bought a mess o’ cheese and some wine.